Company Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Why do you consider your company the best?


Our company uses a 600 ton press to stamp out our 2’ x 4’ sheets. We are one of the few companies that sell 2’ x 4’ sheets. We have found that the 2’ x 4’ sheets are easy and faster to install because they cover more area (8 sq. ft.), have less seams and because of the 4 ft. length makes for a more uniform installation. We are very conscientious of our customers. We have consultants to help you through any process and very much suggest you use our expertise. Glenn “The Tinman” Eldridge is the only person in the industry that for many years was an installer himself. We use tin-plated steel, have original designs that date back as far as the 1800s, have very competitive prices and we pride ourselves on service, which is second to none. Glenn has been in the business 50 years come 2019. Our consultants first advice is “Get samples!" You can’t buy from price alone. We are very competitive, but our sheets are 2’ x 4’ and some people don’t realize that, so we seem twice as high. We’re not. Service is our specialty and we answer the phone, but if not, a quick call back is in your future.




Can you do custom work?


We can reproduce most designs. We charge $3,000 per die with a $300.00 (10%) non refundable fee placed with the order. BUT we can’t make dies from drawing. We need a good physical piece, no bigger than 2’ x 4’. Usually we can have something in your hands in approximately 3 weeks for approval. Then we charge per piece above the cost of the die. Cost depends on size of the sheet, but usually a 2’ x 4’ would cost S18.00 per sheet.





Material Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

What is the material?


The sheets are made of tin-plated steel. The thickness is a .010 and has very good paint retention. The material should be protected with an oil-based paint or if you wish to keep the shiny silver tin factory finish, use a clear coat, such as, an oil-based Lacquer or Urethan. We can do other finishes: (New page link), but if it’s just a one color finish you are looking for, we recommend you paint it on site after it is installed because you will cover the nail heads and any nooks and crannies that could be closed by just the thickness of the paint or of any caulking of the cornice in the corners.




Is the material environmentally safe?


Our material is considered green, making it recyclable and safe for the environment.




What’s the material’s fire rating?


When I first joined my dad in the business back in 1969, he always said it was equivalent to 1/4” thick sheetrock. I don’t know what kind of fire rating that was, but here is the rating from our steel manufacturer.




Should the sheets be protected?


The material is tin-plated steel and can rust over time. You can paint directly to the material with an oil-based paint or DTM (Direct to metal) after it's installed. On a wall, where people have a habit of touching or as a backsplash where there is water present, we recommend an oil-based primer first. Some people like the shiny silver finish and want to keep it, so you can use a “clear coat”. Oil based Urethan or Lacquer. My suggestion and my personal preference if you want it to look like a tin ceiling is to paint it silver for 3 reasons: 1- You need to take the step to protect it. 2- It still looks like metal, but not so brand spanking new, more like a matted finish. 3- The matted finish lets one see more detail in the design because it is less reflective. Note: You can alway get a $3.00 spray can, silver, chrome or aluminum and test it on the back of a sheet.




Are there other accessories?


Cornices: Besides our beautiful 2’ x 4’ sheets we also have cornices. Cornice is like a crown molding that goes between the ceiling and the wall to finish the look. The coverage on the ceiling and the wall range from 2” - 9”, and they come 4’ in length, but using wood is also acceptable, but consider filler. Cornice goes up last. Filler: Filler is a pebbly finished that goes between the decorative sheets (we call the “face plate”) and the cornice. It is used as a border around the room so the cornice doesn’t land in the middle of the design. The room size dictates the size of the filler. NOTE: Send a diagram with all your walls and the correct measurements and I will redraw the area numbering the sheets the way I would install them and will get the shipping price as well. The filler is less deep than the design sheets, so if you use wood there should be less gaps then when it lays over the “face plate”. The metal cornice can and should be tapped closed at those seams, but the wood can’t so the filler would make less gapping, but depending on the angle from the floor the wood might be just fine. These filler sheet also come in 2’ x 4’ sheets. Molded Filler: We also have a molded filler that lays flat on the ceiling between the face plate and the filler. It dresses up a room a little more and although it looks wonderful in any room, formal dining rooms are the most popular. They are also used when the wall is glass or cornice can’t be used because it doesn’t come down on the wall. One more use is if you do a room and the ceiling continues into another room. The molded filler can be used as a way to end the tin ceiling. They come in 4’ lengths and either 3 1/2” or 4 1/2” widths. Frieze: We have a couple of friezes that can go on the upper part of a wall. 4’ lengths, one is 6” and the other is 14”. Medallion: We have a medallion that is 4’ x 4’, it is made up of two 2’ x 4’ sheets. Ribbon Design: We have a ribbon design that was originally made for walls. These come 2’ x 4’.





Patterns and Sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

What is the difference in the sheet sizes?


There are 4 different sheet sizes. For a nail-up system 2’ x 4’ and 2’ x 2’ and for a suspended ceiling 2’ x 4’ and 2’ x 2’. Best to call, so our expert consultants can help you with your special need. A) 2’ x 4’ Sheets for nail up. Actual size is (24 1/2” x 48 1/2”) because there is an overlap of a 1/2” for nailing up. Most of our sheet come this way, so you get 8 square feet per sheet. B) 2’ x 2’ Sheets for nail up. Actual size is (24 1/2” x 24 1/2”) because there is an overlap of a 1/2” for nailing up. Only some design come this way and it says “2’ x 2’ only”, so you get 4 square feet per sheet. C) 2’ x 4’ Sheets for a suspended or drop ceiling. Actual size is (23 3/4” x 47 3/4”). These are usually to accommodate an existing ceiling. 8 square feet per sheet. It is better if you can add a cross T making the openings 2’ x 2’ (23 3/4” x 23 3/4”). It gives more support and visually the square designs look better in square openings. D) 2’ x 2’ Sheets for suspended ceilings. Actual size is (23 3/4” x 23 3/4”). Best when doing a new suspended ceiling. Any design can be made by us to fit a 2’ x 2’ grid. NOTES: 2’ x 4’ sheets can be made to fit a 2’ x 4’ Lay-in opening, but a 2’ x 4’ CAN NOT be cut in half to make a 2’ x 2’ nail-up sheet and a (2’ x 2’ only) sheet can’t be made into a 2’ x 4’ of any kind. NOTE: The 24” designs don’t lay in the grid as well as the 6” or 12” because of a warping effect known as “oil-canning”. If that is what you want to use, then universal hold down clips should be used.




What is the difference in the pattern sizes?


We have one 3” design, but many 6”, 12” and 24” repeat patterns on our 2’ x 4’ sheets. They come in various styles and some come in the same pattern, so you can do a master bedroom in a 12” pattern and a matching 6” design in the master bath. You can do the same with a kitchen ceiling and backsplash. Our consultants can help you pick an appropriate size pattern for you particular area.




What types of finishes can I choose from?


We have the shiny silver finish (factory finish), a shiny copper finish and several hand-painted finishes. For colors and prices check out: http://thetinman.com/finishes_faux.htm





Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

How are the ceilings installed?


Instructions for a ceiling can be found on another page, but in short, we recommend installing on wood. You would just need to nail it. On a wall it should be nailed and glued because people always have a tendency to touch and metal has give. If you are installing it to sheetrock then you nails and glue. Put the nails at a slight angle in opposite directions so they can’t pull straight out. Wire nails are good if you are using the hammer and nail method. They come in little packets 1 x 18. 1 is the length = 1 inch, so you don’t hit your finger, 18 is the thickness, so 17 or 19 will work, but a pneumatic brad nailer is fine and since you don’t have to hold the nail, a half inch brad is fine. Just make sure the power is lowered so it doesn’t shoot through the metal. Send a diagram to tinman83@earthlink.net and we will send a diagram of the area back with the way we would install it, the material you need and the shipping price.




How is a backsplash installed?


Instructions for a backsplash can be found on another page, but here are some more helpful hints. Backsplashes are usually between 15” to 18” high. So when picking a design we would recommend a 6” design as opposed to a 12” because instead of three full 6” boxes you would get one 12” pattern and half of another. But some back splashes are bigger or continues along a larger wall areas, so the 12” pattern may work. The 6-09 has a full circle overlapping squares in the design, this is a very forgiving design for odd sizes areas. We recommend nailing and gluing for a backsplash because the seam may not lay flat as the glue is drying and then you get a dry clunk of glue behind the sheet. The seams are the weakest spot when just gluing, which is why 2’ x 4’ sheets are better, less seams. Any construction adhesive should work. We have found Loctite more recently to be a good adhesive. As far as any trim, we recommend a small wood trim under the cabinets and vertically up along side a cabinet where the metal is cut to fit. You need something to cover the cut edge and our cornices or moldings just aren’t made for that. When you have a larger area over your sink or stove wall, we recommend centering the sheet in that opening and working out from there. You can send diagrams to me at tinman83@earthlink.net and I will lay out the backsplash the way I would install it. I do the same for ceilings. The tin sheets used for a backsplash has become very popular.




What if I have an unusual ceiling?


If you mean the shape, then send us a diagram, hand drawn is fine as long as all the measurements of each wall is correct and we will send back a drawing showing where we would start. We will also give you the cost from door to door with shipping. If you mean the ceiling has an unusual finish, then here are a few types: Regular ceiling: Solid wood ceiling: You can nail the metal directly to the wood. Cornice goes up last. Send a diagram to tinman83@earthlink.net and I will send a diagram of the area back with the way I would install it, the material you need and the shipping price. Sheetrock ceiling: If there is sheetrock I would glue it and nail it up. Panel adhesive, Liquid Nail or Loctite. Send a diagram to tinman83@earthlink.net and I will send a diagram back with the way I would install it, the material you need and the shipping price. Cornice goes up last. Popcorn ceiling: I wouldn’t put the sheet directly over the popcorn, but I would take plywood and rub it back and forth before nailing it up, it will level itself over the popcorn. Then you can install it to the plywood. Send a diagram to tinman83@earthlink.net and I will send a diagram back with the way I would install it, the material you need and the shipping price. Cornice goes up last. Bare beam ceiling: If you could run plywood up (3/8” is fine), that would be my first recommendation, but if not I would put up furring strips. First I put up furring strips around the perimeter of the room for the cornice. Then I start in the middle of the room and run furring strips 1 foot apart on center, marking it so the edge of the sheet fall on the center of the furring. You would still need wood between those slates at the 6” and 18” intervals where the sheets overlap on the short 2’ sides. Send a diagram to tinman83@earthlink.net and I will send a diagram back with the way I would install it, the material you need and the shipping price. Cornice goes up last. Acoustical ceiling: They are usually 1 foot square fiber tiles. Do not nail the sheets over them. Either put plywood over them or take them down. They are soft and can make for a wavy ceiling. Send a diagram to tinman83@earthlink.net and I will send a diagram back with the way I would install it, the material you need and the shipping price. Cornice goes up last. Lay-in sheets: We can also cut the sheets to fit a suspended ceiling application. These sheets are either 23 3/4” x 47 3/4” (considered 2’ x 4’ Lay-in sheets) or 23 3/4” x 23 3/4” (considered 2’ x 2’ Lay-in sheets). The 2’ x 2’ LI sheets look better because the designs are square fitting in square openings, and they also have more support, but when the 2’ x 4’ LI grid system is already in place, you can use our 2’ x 4’ LI sheets and even slide them between the old tiles and the grid for extra support and insulation. The best grid is the 15/16” grid, but tell us if you use the thinner grid. Cornice is usually not put up. EXTRA: Holes for the lights: If the light is still up and it falls between two sheet then cutting half circles on each side works fine. Even if the cup of the light is 1” from the edge of a sheet you can cut a straight line to the circle. If it falls right on the sheet, I would bang a hole with the back of a hammer and get my snips in there and cut the circle. I then hammer down the cut edge a little. Usually a 4” hole will suffice for a 6” cup. Remember to tape the wires securely, so its safe from touching the metal.





Shipping and Returns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

How long does it take to ship?


Since we manufacture our stock is excellent and we can usually ship the factory shiny silver sheets the same day or the next. We have several designs in the copper finish in stock, but if not we do have the copper sheets in stock and can run them in the design you pick quickly. The hand-painted faux finishes are sent to our professional painter and can take 3-4 weeks.




Do you ship out of the USA?


Yes, we can. Best to email: tinman83@earthlink.net. Give us your metric measurements and we will convert them and get quantities, then we will get shipping prices. We will send you complete pricing for your order. It usually takes a day to get a freight price. Samples outside of the USA cost $100.00




What is the return policy?


25% off on return items. You’ll get 75%. of order. Freight back is your cost. This is one of the main reasons we request you call us for help. We want you to be happy with your choice and not have to return anything. We do advise some extra depending on lights, vents, etc, but the overage is minimal and we suggest you wrap it in plastic and store it.





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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Company Information

Why do you consider your company the best?


Our company uses a 600 ton press to stamp out our 2’ x 4’ sheets. We are one of the few companies that sell 2’ x 4’ sheets. We have found that the 2’ x 4’ sheets are easy and faster to install because they cover more area (8 sq. ft.), have less seams and because of the 4 ft. length makes for a more uniform installation. We are very conscientious of our customers. We have consultants to help you through any process and very much suggest you use our expertise. Glenn “The Tinman” Eldridge is the only person in the industry that for many years was an installer himself. We use tin-plated steel, have original designs that date back as far as the 1800s, have very competitive prices and we pride ourselves on service, which is second to none. Glenn has been in the business 50 years come 2019. Our consultants first advice is “Get samples!" You can’t buy from price alone. We are very competitive, but our sheets are 2’ x 4’ and some people don’t realize that, so we seem twice as high. We’re not. Service is our specialty and we answer the phone, but if not, a quick call back is in your future.




Can you do custom work?


We can reproduce most designs. We charge $3,000 per die with a $300.00 (10%) non refundable fee placed with the order. BUT we can’t make dies from drawing. We need a good physical piece, no bigger than 2’ x 4’. Usually we can have something in your hands in approximately 3 weeks for approval. Then we charge per piece above the cost of the die. Cost depends on size of the sheet, but usually a 2’ x 4’ would cost S18.00 per sheet.





© 2018 Chelsea Decorative Metal

Chelsea Decorative Metal • 8212 Braewick Drive • Houston, Texas 77074 • Phone 713-721-9200 • Fax 713-776-8661 • Email Tinman83@earthlink.net